Author |
Topic: Upgrading the Hori Tekken 5 TAAS PART 1 (INTRO) (Read 1111 times) |
|
modeverything
Newbie
member is offline
Posts: 5
|
 |
Upgrading the Hori Tekken 5 TAAS PART 1 (INTRO)
« Thread started on: Mar 3rd, 2005, 5:08pm » |
|
This tutorial is brought to you by Himura Games and Modeverything.com
This thread will be for all of the portions of a tutorial for upgrading the Special Edition Tekken 5 10th Aniversary Arcade Stick "SET 5 TAAS"
Tools Required:
Parts Required:
- Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y (Flash will work also)
- Japanese 30 & 24 mm buttons (clip in or screw type)
- Solder (rosin core prefered)
Button Mapping: (Numbers refer to USB DirectX HID mapping)
Select-10 Start-9
White Black
L1-5 Square-4 Triangle-1 R1-6
Purple Blue Yellow Green
L2-7 X-3 Circle-2 R1-8
Orange Gray Brown Red
Please don't comment on this tread till i'm all done. Pics should be coming in as well.
|
|
|
|
modeverything
Newbie
member is offline
Posts: 5
|
|
PART 2 (DISSASSEMBLY)
« Reply #1 on: Mar 3rd, 2005, 5:14pm » |
|
Dissassembly:
1) Remove the 8 philips head screws on the bottom of joystick backing plate. Save the screws carefully and set aside the bottom plate.
2) Using a 7mm socket plus extension, unscrew the 6 nut and bolt sets from the metal top plate. Save the locking washer with each nut/bolt set and set them aside w/ the other saved parts.
3) Lift out the top plate and carefully remove the PlayStation cord clip/molex from the PCB.
Removing the joystick:
1) Using a Standard head screwdriver bottom of the shaft from spinning and unscrew the red ball-top handle.
2) Desolder the 4 pairs of wires going to the joystick at the microswitches on the Hori joystick.
3) Unscrew the for philips head screws from the set them aside. Save them because they will be used to mount the JLF.
4) Lift out the joystick cause you are done.
If you can't get it to this shape, you shouldn't go any further:
http://www.geocities.com/armad1ll0/tutorial/joystick_removed.jpg
Removing the buttons:
1) All of the buttons are clipped in and held rigid through the PCB soldered to the back of all ten of them. Desolder each of the two prongs on all ten buttons. I find that using a solder sucker makes it really easy and you don't have to use up a bunch of desoldering braid.
2) Check to make sure all buttons are desoldered and lift off the PCB. You may have to heat up some sections with your iron to get the PCB to continue to lift off each button.
3) Compress both clips from the back side of the button and left off all ten buttons from the top.
http://www.geocities.com/armad1ll0/tutorial/button_desoldered.jpg
|
|
|
|
modeverything
Newbie
member is offline
Posts: 5
|
|
PART 3 (The Joystick)
« Reply #2 on: Mar 6th, 2005, 03:52am » |
|
Part 3 (Joystick Upgrade)
The Joystick: (spiffyshoe's method)
1) The joystick can screw down right on top of the four metal flanges, you just need to create space for the screw head and get a screw to fit.
2) By shaving, melting, carving, sanding down one particular spot. The head of a screw can fit between the joystick body and the PCB where the switches are mounted.
http://www.geocities.com/armad1ll0/tutorial/screw_before.jpg
3) The 4 screws that held the Hori joystick in can be used as long as they are cut down to fit without bottoming out against the top plate. I use the small dremmel cutoff wheel to cut the screws and it works great. Including the head, the screw should be no longer than 3/4". Just under would be about right.
http://www.geocities.com/armad1ll0/tutorial/screw_length.jpg
4) Once all four screws are cut to length, you are ready to line up and mount the joystick. You'll notice that you can't fit one of the dust covers between the top plate and the joystick body. This is what they do with the HRAP. It won't fit here. You don't really need it.
5) Now slide in the PCB. (wire loom direction doesn't really matter unless you use the harness, but it's not needed.) Snap in the gate on top, put the dust cover on the top side and tighten down that ball-top handle. (or bat-top) Use a screwdriver to tighten up that handle since it's annoying to have loosen up in the middle of battle.
6) Wire it up according to this information.
Wiring layout.
(reading from the top down on the back side of the PCB where the joystick wires come from)
Of each pair of colored wires, the first one is the common ground.
Common grounds are all soldered to the prong on the microswitch that reads "COM"
Joystick wires will be soldered to the prong that reads "NO" for "normally open"
Therefore the eight wires will equate to:
8 as seen on the PCB
Grey 1 = Common ground
Grey 2 = Joystick Right
White 1 = Common ground
White 2 = Joystick Left
Yellow 1 = Common ground
Yellow 2 = Joystick Down
Red 1 = Common ground
Red 2 = Joystick Up
1 as seen on the PCB
should/could look like this:
http://www.geocities.com/armad1ll0/tutorial/wired_up.jpg
7) Pat yourself on the back cause you got yourself basically a HRAP now.
Reverse the dissasembly instructions and re-assemble your joystick or move on to the button upgrades.
|
|
|
|
modeverything
Newbie
member is offline
Posts: 5
|
|
PART 4 (the buttons)
« Reply #3 on: Mar 7th, 2005, 03:04am » |
|
Part 3 (the buttons)
The buttons: (ShinJN's method)
The Goal:
http://www.geocities.com/armad1ll0/ebay/Tkn_10_RAP3.jpg
I had been installing Sanwa buttons for a while but you'll notice that the Sanwa prongs are much larger and wider than the stock Hori ones. I would Dremmel out a great big hole to solder the prongs to the right area of Copper trace.
ShinJN showed that he had bent the prongs so that he had a nice narrow spacing that lined up better with the existing holes.
From the narrow spacing, a longer oval hole can be dremmed into the PCB so that the Sanwa prong will fit in.
1) after removal of all of the buttons, dremmel out the button prong holes to fit the spacing and width of the sanwa prongs. Make sure no to break any of the copper traces that are for the possitive side of the button. The common ground side has more room for error.
2) bend the double right angles into each of the buttons to narrow the prong spacing.
3) Grind out the two tabs on the steel top plate. I use a small stone grinding tip in my dremmel. The sparks go everywhere, yes. Don't burn the art on your top plate. Do this carefully and slowly... too much heat can warp your artwork. Buttons also need to fit smoothly into the perfectly round holes.
4) Clip in all of your new sanwa buttons and test how the new PCB holes line up.
This side should look kinda like this:
http://www.geocities.com/armad1ll0/tutorial/wide_prong_holes.jpg
(accept for the run away dremmel marks =(
|
|
|
|
modeverything
Newbie
member is offline
Posts: 5
|
|
Part 5 (lowering Start and Select buttons)
« Reply #4 on: Mar 10th, 2005, 12:21am » |
|
It's also possible to shave the start and select buttons so that they do not get hit during gameplay. There's a trick to it but it's really simple.
http://www.geocities.com/armad1ll0/tutorial/sunken.jpg
1) The 24 mm hori buttons need to both be taken out of the top panel.
2) Pry out the caps from the button housing and microswitch. You'll notice that the tabs on the housing that keep the 24mm button in the top plate are stuck in. You'll need to press them outward. The tricky part is that these tabs don't pop out because of the fact that the top plate is just too thick.
3) shave the locking tabs on the button body so that there's enough space so that they won't block the button cap when the button body is shoved into the top plate. (you'll know what I mean when you look and see that these tabs are pushed in. They short of block the cap motion going all the way down after you shave the button cap.
4) Shave the button cap so that center, and sides meet flush with the X shapped reinforcement webing type support. Look right down from the bottom of the cap and you'll see an X. That is how far I shaved my button caps and they come out low enough so that I don't hit Start while mashing buttons. You should make sure that the rectangle slot is not blocked. The top of the microswith fits into that and should have enough pressure so that button cap won't be coming out of the button body. Once you shave the caps tabs, you wonder if it'll stay in. It's works fine.
http://www.geocities.com/armad1ll0/tutorial/shaved.jpg
|
|
|
|
taiki
Newbie
member is offline
Posts: 22
|
|
Re: Upgrading the Hori Tekken 5 TAAS PART 1 (INTR
« Reply #5 on: Jul 25th, 2006, 09:36am » |
|
Nice guide. I'm going to be doing this job on someone's T5 stick.
IN theory, couldn't you just bend the sanwa switch terminals to fit in the hole? I saw that being done on some japanese site...
|
|
 Logged
|
|
|
|
dubdubdub
Newbie
member is offline
Posts: 1
|
|
Re: Upgrading the Hori Tekken 5 TAAS PART 1 (INTR
« Reply #6 on: Sep 12th, 2006, 6:47pm » |
|
I just finished putting a Sanwa stick in mine. It's worth noting that if you go to any Home Depot or Lowes you can purchase "Decorative Tapping Screw - Oval", size #6 x 3/4"
The thread is a bit different from the original screws but are stronger and more corse, so with some pushing they will re-thread the original mounting holes. They are also flat head and mount flush inside without having to dremel your stick up at all.
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
djlee
Newbie
member is offline
Posts: 1
|
|
Re: Upgrading the Hori Tekken 5 TAAS PART 1 (INTR
« Reply #7 on: Sep 13th, 2009, 5:24pm » |
|
I know this is a really old post but does anyone have the pictures that are linked (links are down )as I really want to do this mod.
Thanks In Advance 
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
